add a welt pocket to jacket lining

I will be using Simplicity 4014 to make a long spring jacket in black matte polyester. But I’m going to vamp it up with an oval patch pocket on the front, AND a self-lining complete with single welt pocket; just the right size for my cell phone.

My chosen pattern does not call for a lining, but since I want to use a light-weight, faux-suede fabric that lacks body, it would benefit from the stabilization even a thin lining layer provides.

Because it will be self-lined, it will be reversible, that is, all raw seams are to be hidden between the two layers.

To make sure the coat does not become tight due to a self-lining, I cut pattern pieces a generous size (even though mentally I am protesting at having to be a size 16, when I can buy size 14 in stores) But I will get over it. I have gotten over worse.Image

Perhaps the most challenging of these style extras is creating the single welt pocket. I would recommend welt pockets for natural fibre weaves that hold a crease. Mine is not such a fabric. So, I made a practice pocket with some scrap ends to see if I could manage it with minimal frustration. Conclusion: A double welt is out of the question because the but I am prepared for the effort of making a single welt. The trick will be to use basting and tacking and keep the iron at the proper setting. I don’t want it so hot that it will erase the texture pattern on front, but I want it hot enough to press the welt in place. I really want the welt because I am crazy happy with the contrast of matte black on shiny black. To me it is in a formal class, and an understated subtle hue contrast that is my preferred taste.

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